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Street clothes are not far from death?
Last month, Virgil abloh just returned to work. Previously, he was out of the off white women's show at Paris Fashion Week in late September due to his too busy work schedule, and announced to work at home for three months, which attracted public attention. On November 5, he posted a self portrait in the elevator of Louis Vuitton on his instagram account, suggesting that he had returned to work.
He is now working closely on a new exhibition in Paris in January. The theme of the exhibition focuses on how to transform and decorate human living space. Although Virgil abloh's main business is fashion design, his interest in home design is growing as he cooperates more frequently with IKEA and other household and lifestyle brands.
As a review of the end of the 2010's, Emma hope Allwood recently interviewed Virgil abloh for British media dazed, and street fashion is clearly the core change in the fashion industry in the past decade. In this controversial interview, Virgil abloh, who took three months off from work, showed unprecedented humility and candour.
Most of all, Virgil abloh knows the periodicity of the fashion industry and the problems of the street trend He leads, rather than the blindness many critics think. "How many more T-shirts, hoodies and sneakers can we have? I think in the future, people will enter a state of expressing personal connotation and style through Vintage second-hand clothing. Fashion is no longer about buying fresh unopened items, it's about finding them in archives. "
With 2019 becoming the watershed of sustainable fashion trend from the minority to the mainstream, most people in the fashion industry have put down their hesitation and are ready to enter a new era. From the perspective of management, sustainability may only mean boring digital indicators and policy improvement, but in the creative field, designers are exploring the significance of sustainability from a more human and diversified perspective.
In a recent article "leaving little time for Celine," I wrote, "millennial generation of consumers love retro and Vintage costumes more than any other generation. However, consumers want to see old clothes that are exactly the same as those of the last century, but instead match different styles to show a contemporary mood. Retro is not archeology. "
This may be the future direction pointed out by Virgil abloh. This undercurrent was born in the early days. Now when Virgil abloh launched Pyrex vision, the first fashion brand, he printed the logo and zebra pattern on the old Ralph Lauren clothes. Such an idea may not be brilliant, but now it seems that it is not a sustainable reconstruction and redefinition based on limited materials.
Virgil abloh, who has not been trained in fashion design classes, knows clearly that it's hard to make more changes in clothes today. On the limited carrier of clothing, almost all changes have been created. The difference is just one more sleeve and one less sleeve.
Therefore, Virgil abloh pays more attention to the meaning expressed by clothes. "If the meaning of fashion designer is limited to making clothes, it will narrow the fashion designer. A garment is more important than its fabric. It can express meaning and express something about a generation. Say a brand or designer, Ralph Lauren or Margiela, and it will take you into a different world, because everything they do has a meaning. For me, that's the fashion designer of the day, a profession that's not limited to the outdated definitions people make. "
The creative director, represented by Virgil abloh, has redefined the meaning of fashion designers over the past decade. What is ignored by more people is that the inevitability of their emergence comes from the change of productivity and production relationship in fashion industry. In the era of material and meaning "overcapacity", the combination of speed and quantity becomes the core competitiveness, which is also applicable to other industries.
In order to cope with six to eight fashion series of luxury brands, as well as a variety of capsule series and marketing activities, the whole fashion industry, especially the creative talents such as fashion designers, are overdrawn. In sharp contrast, Virgil abloh can carry out 5 to 6 projects at the same time, continuously launching cooperation series. He has offices all over the world, but he never works on the desk. All the design work is done through two mobile phones and instant messaging software WhatsApp.
From the consideration of saving time and cost, this way of work is more suitable for the current super fast pace of luxury industry. This year, Virgil abloh held a personal retrospective exhibition "figures of speech" at the Art Museum of Chicago, which means that the number of projects he completed at least far exceeds that of fashion designers in the last century and the same period, proving the effectiveness of this way of work. And Virgil abloh's good use of social media also caters to the "rhythm" of the current market. With the help of personal social media, he replaced the function of traditional marketing department and further simplified the production chain.
Reproduction and misappropriation, symbol repetition and arbitrary combination are the creative ways of Virgil abloh. This simple and fast creative production process not only caters to the cultural needs of post-modernism fragmentation and symbol reproduction, but also just meets the greed of the commercial market.
Although Virgil abloh, Kanye West, Samuel Ross and other creative people often represent a kind of impetuous side of the trend culture, which is connected with the negative evaluation of hunger marketing, symbolization, consumerism and so on, recent signs show that these creative people are also making changes, and they seem to be inspired by the classical forces of traditional art, culture, religion and so on.
To commemorate the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci's death, Virgil abloh and the Louvre Museum of France recently launched a series of clothing products, including T-shirts and hoodies. Virgil abloh incorporated Leonardo da Vinci's most famous paintings, such as the virgin rock, into the design, as well as the off white brand logo.
Kanye West, a close friend of Virgil abloh, is building a broader creative landscape by combining music, fashion, traditional religious beliefs and other elements through his Sunday service church concert. Starting in January this year, the Sunday service choir, launched by Kanye West, appeared through his wife Kim Kardashian's social account and performed in different places every week, similar to traditional choirs. Kim Kardashian once said that this is a music group founded by Kanye West to improve his mental health.
In fact, throughout Kanye West's nearly ten years of creative career, he has led the cross-border trend between fashion and music, sports, and social networking. On July 19 this year, Kanye West filed a trademark application with the U.S. patent and Trademark Office to register the term "Sunday service" for the use of bottoms, dresses and other clothing. Thinking of the "sea of people" display form that yeezy fashion show has always used before, Kanye West is developing a consistent set of creative ideas to build fashion brands into a new religion.
Another good friend of Virgil abloh's, Kim Jones, has also developed a new creative direction after being the art director of Dior men's wear. In an interview after leaving Louis Vuitton last year, he tried to strip the label of "street trend". He said he didn't like the word "streetwear" because it's hard to define. Everyone walking on the street is wearing clothes, and it's impossible to judge whether it's the street or not. 'streetwear' is a stupid word.
In his first Dior men's wear series, he took the personal life and creative works of Christian Dior, the founder of the brand, as the inspiration, integrated the street culture he was good at, and expressed the "duality" of the brand. In just one year, Dior men's wear will be changed, or will be equal to Dior women's wear. In the interview, he said that Dior men's wear production process is the best in the industry. Working in Louis Vuitton is more like a fashion business manufacturing process, but Dior is a fashion customization process, providing various high-end consumers with products for different occasions.
In an interview with dazed, Virgil abloh revealed that he was fully aware that the street culture of the past decade was driven by a group of creative talents. The trend of street dress is a global concept. In addition to American designers like him and Shayne Oliver of hood by air, European designers have also helped people understand this new trend. Designers like demna gvasalia and Gosha rubchinskiy are all in the same creative community, and everyone has played a role in creating a new atmosphere.
This undoubtedly emphasizes that the influence change of street culture in the past decade is actually a collective effort to empower young people with the untrained "laymen" like Virgil abloh and Kanye West.
It's not the street culture that wins, it's the success of these people. Their success experience is more significant than the clothes themselves. For young people, they respond to the demands of young people who are rejected by the closed fashion world but still eager to change the world. Don't forget, as the source of street culture, hip-hop music is a successful study of writing the bottom jump.
Fashion is still back to human nature. Today, it seems that the success of Virgil abloh comes from its response to the cultural and emotional demands of the community. Last year, Virgil abloh invited more than 700 art students to watch the show on the first show and distributed T-shirts of different colors to them, which was considered as an innovative act to break the fashion privilege and attracted wide attention of the industry.
"My motivation has always been to represent a generation. I still think about the kids who can't go to the fashion show. " After Louis Vuitton's debut, he posted a picture on instagram with the text "you can do it too.".
"It's easy to feel that 'this is not the place you should come to', or 'if you don't have this dress, you don't belong to us'. But my experience tells them that things that seem impossible can also come true. "
In a commentary for the Chinese edition of art news, author Xing Zhao said that Virgil abloh's creative projects have never been just about clothes. What he created was a community of identity and sharing. In Virgil abloh's view, the meaning of "cooperation" and "community" is to let people from different backgrounds and fields form a real partnership and create bigger things that individuals can't achieve together, which has a strong resonance with the current youth culture and the concept of "community".
In April this year, Kim Jones accepted the interview with WeChat public No. LADYMAX. It also mentioned that many young people regard Virgil Abloh as an idol. People want to become him, and then start their own business, to create their own brand or to do their own music, which is actually a positive influence.
Now it seems that the biggest difference between Virgil abloh and traditional fashion designers is that they try to create a picture beyond fashion itself. Fashion is just a kind of information medium, it's a megaphone. "Now I've got a megaphone big enough to express exactly how I feel in an abstract way. It's like making a work of art, but I use Louis Vuitton, one of the oldest brands in Paris. "
Followers of Virgil abloh and Kanye West follow their path. Jerry Chu, a junior at the Central Saint Martin School of art and design, was one of them. He had contact with the Kanye West team and represented the first generation of young Chinese who were influenced by hip-hop culture and were infiltrating the global street culture.
Like Kanye West and others, he not only studied fashion design, but also began to carry out more various practices related to street culture. Since high school, he has established his own clothing brand with his classmates, and then participated in the creation of 221B rap music group, preparing for performances and local street culture media.
"I have been attracted by this culture since I started listening to the first rap song in primary school. This decade is the time when hip-hop has become the mainstream and recognized by the public. In this decade, the progress of society and the change of people's ideas have made its music more pure and diversified. Just like punk and techno music gathered young people in nightclubs in the past, Reebok culture changed the way young people dressed. This decade's hip-hop, through the Internet, has spread a new street scene and created a new fashion perspective. The freedom advocated by hip-hop culture has changed the past tight and high waist, loose and leisure clothing has become the mainstream, changing the silhouette and image of this era. Since I came into contact with this culture, my lifestyle and world outlook have been changed. "
Like Virgil abloh, social media has become a lifestyle and expression tool for Jerry Chu's generation. Last year, Jerry Chu received a lawsuit letter from Jimmy Choo, a British luxury footwear brand, which sued Jerry Chu for trademark infringement and asked the State Administration for Industry and commerce to revoke its trademark. Jerry Chu, on the other hand, defended his rights by making use of the voice of the famous blogger, die Prada, on social media. He also won the case.
What's more, Jerry Chu's central St. Martin School of art represents the insistence on the traditional fashion spirit and the criticism on the fast disappearing street culture in the fashion academia. Between the two trends of thought, Jerry Chu constantly sought balance.
"At school, students like to make fun of Virgil and others. I thought the same at first. Virgil abloh and Kanye West have not received the traditional European fashion art education. But when I slowly contact and reexamine the fashion industry, I find that they are wise people. They can make the design continue to maintain the relevance with the crowd, and can accurately find the target crowd in the shortest time, which is a problem young designers need to consider. Designers can certainly entertain themselves, but I respect those who work harder. "
Virgil abloh's "street fashion will die" didn't dampen Jerry Chu's confidence either. "I actually agree with him. What he wants to say is that the mass-produced printed T-shirts, functional jackets and sports pants will be replaced. This is not in line with the trend of sustainable development. This fashion is polluting the environment. In the future, the street scene will be for young people to discuss vintage, buy story pieces and more exquisite clothes. I haven't bought any new clothes since last year. The faded ones are more interesting. "

In the coming decade, almost all materials have been created, and the variable lies in the meaning that people can create based on materials. Only when people get rid of the fixed perspective of criticizing the new things, can they have a more objective understanding of our times and make the most accurate prediction of the development of the next decade.

Source: Li ren.com